I'm pretty late to doing this BUT, I got it done before Christmas.
Little late definitely since I made the original version as a prototype in a few hours back in like, March but it got war tested over a year, and heavily improved. Updates are a METAL priming bar, smoother prime and a pistol grip if you choose to add one. Not mandatory, and excessively complicated.
Anyway, here's kinda what it would look like, I added on a side plate mount and a little bit of a few extra things for my self.
The original VGS Mk1 (as shown above) had been war tested heavily, brought on excessive ops and had about a few thousand shots fired through it. Not lying, I go to wars heavily lol. Nothing broke, and 2 months ago I added a secondary spring for fuck you power, I'm unaware of it's origin. So it's safe to say the janky version did just fine, this is the refined version that had about 100 shots put through it, seems fine right now and will be war tested soon at NYCNO 2.
This guide however, will help you make something like this
Also, I recommend completing the original Sentinel Mod guide and knock out the AR and stuff.
/insert someone complaining about van talking too much here
-dremel (cutting wheel and sanding drum)
-drill (with bits up to 1/2 in)
-soldering iron (don't ask)
-sharpie
-screw driver
-file
-knife
-Vice (preferably but I off handed a lot of it)
-Tap (would be nice but not neccesary)
All photos will have description BELOW the photo
(Some photos have been lost, like material and first steps but eh)
PUMP GRIP MOUNT
Spoiler
hope you have everything, lol this is a filler for me cutting the retaliator up standard VG style
Cut out the Pump part of the retaliator. remove everything inside, all support bits, gone. Flatten it out, use pliers to rip it out, dremel it down, whatever.
You want it like this,
Than cut off the back and make it nice like this.
Now sand down the sentinel shell on both sides. Take your time, be slow, remove all ribbing but you still want material.
If you want to know how thin, it should look like this when you shine light from the other side. again, both sides should be like this.
You can cut here, because when you put the slide rails on it needs an indent.
You can cut lower and make a slot strip similar to above so you have clearance later. I forgot about this on the Mk 1 but I have a resolve. Save these plastic strips in case you add a foregrip
So your sentinel hand guard should look like this, so put test and put your ret shell over it.
You also kinda want to sand a bit here, not too much though
You do that so you can attach your retaliator pump grip. It should fit flush and the retaliator shell halves should be able to close and sit over the sentinels sanded front area. .
Like so. The ret shell should be loose fit over the sentinel as E putty will be used to secure it later. If it's not flush, you have to go back and keep sanding inside the ret shell and the sentinel shell
Use some epoxy putty to fill in the gaps, so the sentinel can adhere to the retaliator. Put epoxy everywhere, and than put both shell halves back together to make sure they're on level.
IF YOU CUT HIGH LIKE I DID TO MOUNT THE SLIDE, AND THERE LOOKS LIKE THERE'S GOING TO BE OBSTRUCTION KEEP READING
Alright so 1 in PVC kinda fits over the original sentinel Faux barrel. I just put some 1 in to mark and started grinding + sanding away
Your 1 in PVC extension should not interfere with darts and sit flush on the pump like so. You can cut any 1 in PVC tube to whatever size you want, so you can have a really long barrel for lolz
PRIMING BAR
ughh slots. At least they're small
Spoiler
Mark this area and cut off external nubs/ buldge things. You can sand them down or use an xacto and slice it off.
inside of here too
Do this to both sides and cut it out. Don't forget to deburr.
Oh yea, take out that lock box
And grind down the lower nubs. This way a bolt can go through
if you don't have metal, you CAN use PVC like I originally did but it's not recommended. Anyway, put the bar on the sentinel and mark an x to drill like, kinda near the slot but not right on where it begins. Give it clearance and mark it a little bit off
Do that to the other arm
drill a small pilot hole in those x marks
than take a drill bit and see which is a little larger than your connecting bar (LS bolt lol) . Drill through the pilot holes with that on both sides.
Now put your bolt through to test. Put both arms on and the slide of the retaliator shell. Mark with X's where you want to drill and mount the metal slide to.
Now drill through these with a 5/64 bit (and tap if if you're cool)
now drill through and attatch to the pump slide. Put screws through, make sure they're flush and they can slide on the pump grip rails itself.
You can always mount throught the other side however. Than you would need to drill a countersink, but I use a 1/2 in bit. Anyway, cut off any excess screw on either side. If you want, you can thread lock it with superglue.
It should look like this, and slide around on the rails even if you squeeze it. If it doesn't, sand down some of the screw because there might be excess screw left. Make sure you test it with both halves connected.
From here, you can assemble your sentinel and have a working pump action sentinel, kinda like the original. If you're satisfied, this is all you need. No need for a pistol grip, it is kinda weird to mount.
However, here is the PISTOL GRIP MOUNT
Spoiler
Hope you have some strips of white plastic, didn't use all of your metal bar and a soldering iron. Anyway, cut off the ret pistol grip like so
Cut off the bottom of the Sentinel lever area here
Sand and make the pistol grip kinda fit like this on both sides. Cut down the front of the trigger and make sure it can move around.
once they're connected and aligned with shell halves, drill with a 1/16 in bit through the pistol grip on both sides. screw in both sides to make sure they're aligned.
Oh boi. Alright I reccomend you wear a mask and go outside for this. This is literally cancer. I'm going to have you weld to connect your pistol grip. You can try e putty but I feel there's not enough contact surfaces for that.
you can melt some plastic from both the grip and sentinel, and hold them together so they melt and fuse. I also melted a plastic strip over to connect and fill small bonds. I did this inside and out, and than covered the "welding" with e putty for reinforcement.
Cut down some remaining metal so it can connect and push the original trigger like so. Also make sure the ret trigger can move and there's a slot for the metal bar to move through
Drill 2 holes like this so you can mount the metal bar to the trigger.
Connect with #6 screws to trigger and threadlock. I superglued the trigger and metal bar so it wouldn't move. Make sure it can depress the trigger all the way
Put the trigger in the other half, than close the shell halves, assemble and test
Oh yea, to secure the other charging handle from falling out, wrap it with bit of etape if you're using an LS handle.
Finished shots
Spoiler
what your sentinel should look like
barrel rest mount
charging handle. My sentinel has a stippled grip just because,
feels a little durp. I cut down my rear trigger just because
